Archive for the 'studio green' Category

26
Oct

The Chemicals Between Us (Part One)

Chemicals are a necessary part of the metals studio. iWhile setting up mine, I searched high and low for less toxic, more eco-friendly alternatives.  In addition to being more environmentally responsible, minimizing hazardous chemicals creates a safer, healthier working environment for me — which is important because I intend to work in the studio for a long time!

The properties of chemical products are described in Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS), which contain important information on safety hazards, health effects, environmental impacts, storage and disposal.  You can search for a particular MSDS online or request it from the manufacturer.

References: The Complete Metalsmith (Professional Edition) by Tim McCreight was a useful reference during my research.  I would also recommend The Jewelry Workshop Safety Report by Charles Lewton-Brain (you can purchase a paperback copy or save trees and download the entire book at Lulu.com).  Another great online resource is a list of safer studio alternatives compiled and periodically updated by Jeffrey Herman, founder of the Society of American Silversmiths.  You can also subscribe to the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts e-newsletter, which contains in each issue tips for greening your studio.  Finally, Ganoksin offers a wealth of information on jewelry making — join the Orchid forums (it’s free!) to post questions and seek advice from fellow metalsmiths and jewelers.

Below is a photograph of various chemicals and supplies I recently purchased for the studio.  This post covers items A through I; part two of this post will cover items J through R.  Over time as I work in the studio and continue my research I will refine this list.  Please feel free to comment and share any suggestions you might have for less toxic alternatives!

Studio Chemicals and Supplies

( A ) ~ Baking soda is an essential ingredient in chocolate chip cookies (arguably its most important use!), so it obviously can’t be toxic. iIt is also ideal for neutralizing acids in the studio.  For example, adding baking soda to spent pickle will neutralize the solution and make it safe to pour down the drain.

( B ) ~ Instead of buying paper towels, I purchased a bunch of cotton rags to use in the studio.  These cleaning rags can be washed and reused rather than thrown away.

( C ) ~ Boric acid powder is an active ingredient in roach killer.  When mixed with denatured alcohol (see item D, below) it creates a paste that is used to prevent firescale on silver/copper alloys during soldering operations.  Although boric acid is not particularly hazardous to humans, in large quantities it can be harmful to vegetation and aquatic life.  Prolonged exposure to boric acid dust should be avoided.  Download the MSDS for more information.

( D ) ~ Denatured alcohol is ethanol with poisonous chemicals (usually methanol and methyl isobutyl ketone) added to make it unfit for drinking.  Denatured alcohol is mixed with boric acid powder to prevent firescale (see item C, above).  As you might expect, it is super-flammable (!), so it’s wise to only keep a small amount at the bench.  Make sure you have have good ventilation when soldering because the fumes from it are harmful.  Find out more by reading the denatured alcohol MSDS.  I wanted to use Everclear, a grain alcohol produced by Luxco, as a substitute for denatured alcohol, however the 190-proof variety (95% ethanol and 5% water) has been outlawed in Nevada because of its high alcohol content.  Seems odd considering that both prostitution and gambling are legal here.

( E ) ~ I also purchased VM&P Naphtha in order to reconstitute my jar of Tool Magic (see item G, below).  Like denatured alcohol, VM&P Naphtha is highly flammable and its vapors are harmful; chronic exposure may cause neurological damage and other physiological damage.  Ventilation and proper storage (away from heat, sparks, and flame) are key.  Read the MSDS to learn more.

( F ) ~ Stay Sharp lubricant from Otto Frei is used to lubricate burs, drill bits and saw blades to reduce friction and prolong the life of the cutting edge.  According to Otto Frei, this wax-like lubricant is non-toxic and odorless.  Similar synthetic products are available from other suppliers, including Rio Grande.  I am wondering if beeswax could be used as a ‘natural’ alternative –?

( G ) ~ Tool Magic is a rubberized coating for your pliers that allows you to grip wire and delicate metal work without marring.  It is very useful, but over time it tends to dry out.  Unfortunately, you reconstitute it with a solvent, such as VM&P Naphtha (see item E, above).

( H ) ~ Norton Sharpening Stone Oil is one of many lubricants that can be used with a sharpening stone to refine the cutting edges of gravers and other studio tools.  It is a food-grade (i.e., non-toxic) mineral oil that is often used to sharpen kitchen knives.  I recently heard that you can use peppermint essential oil as a substitute — I will test that once I use up my supply of Norton sharpening stone oil.

( I ) ~ I bought a bottle of Biokleen all purpose cleaner for studio use (I also use Biokleen products for housecleaning).  According to the manufacturer, it is made from grapefruit seed and orange peel extract, and is safe around pets and plants.

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This concludes part one of the post — stay tuned for part two!

~d.




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